FAQ on Growing Atlantic Giant Pumpkins
For many , conditions in the old pumpkin vine darn are not great yet . Do n’t jump the accelerator as many beginners do . If status are sloppy … .. wait . They will get better soon . It is about time for some to start semen inside . Some of us must wait a little longer . By depart a plant 3 or 4 weeks early , you are hurting yourself . turgid plant do not transpose well and get all stressed out . Determine a good transplant date for your area and count back 7 to 10 years … .. no more . That is the right seed starting date . You will also get a line of people who jump the ordnance . What commodity does it do to have a 15 - foot vine in a glasshouse now ? You will have a mature pumpkin at the starting time of Sept. Atlantic Giants only growabout 130 days unless you are in a cool climate . So wait until your garden warms a fiddling and when all the jackrabbits have quit grow in August and September , you will pass them by ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! P.S. If you are sit down with an enormous , pot - stick seedling and are wondering if you have made a big mistake , start some more plants …… .. I have n’t put a ejaculate to the grease yet and do n’t plan to for a few more day . upright portion ! ! ! ! ! ! !
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Split stems / Stem accent
I mature a 300 # plus pumpkin last yr . When it start to mature improbable the shank began split from the vine . I have had this problem before . Should I snub the ascendant thatgrows from the prow or will that slow the increment of the pumpkin or do you haveanother solution ?
root word stress is very common in pumpkin over 200 lbs . My 28 pagegrowing manual goes in to it in profoundness but fundamentally most people switch off off the tap root at the pumpkinand a couple on either side of the pumpkin . This allows the vine to raise off the ground as thepumpkin growstall . you could also have trouble with the shoulders of thepumpkin growing so largethat they drive against the vine and split it off that direction too . When the Cucurbita pepo is about the size of it of a basketball game you could slow move the pumpkin perpendicular to the vine . This should be done in small stone’s throw over a period of a week or you will snap it off . There is no admonition when the pumpkin is about to crack off so go slow and do n’t move it much each day . Also if the fruit sets on the left side of the vine , you’re able to train the vine to the right which pass the shoulder more room . Side vines can also wrap around the large autumn pumpkin and cause split . rail the side vines away from the expanse where the Cucurbita pepo will eventually be so there is room .
I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAD ANY COMMENTS ON A WATERING SCHEDULE ? HOW OFTEN DO YOU irrigate ? I HAVE FAIRLYSANDY SOIL .
I water profoundly , the whole patch , every five to six day from the last tearing or 1″ of rain whichever occurred last . I may , at time , give extra weewee at the stem zone depending on weather conditions and growth rate . I often border on the tragedy to tug for optimal growth but this must be acquire by trial run and mistake , hopefully not too much fault . George Brooks
Could you paint a picture any chemicals for green goddess mastery on pumpkins … give up on hand ascendency on 10 acres !
Concerning weed control on pumpkins . For rivalry pumpkins , I believe mechanical weeding is the only way to go . With black plastic you have hassle with the taproots settle down and there is the possibility of decreased oxygen in the root zona . Chemical weed control may vote out some gage but it will also make yourAtlantic Giantshalf sick . expend a swan neck hoe and skim over them off shallow when immature . A weed that is one half inch tall is much easy than a 6 - in sess . If you cream off and do n’t agitate much soil underneath you will not bring up new locoweed seeds . Weeds ordinarily only germinate in the top two in of the soil . If you skim weed twice you will have little trouble , plus theplant shadesout a lot . I am also a commercial cultivator of regular pumpkin … … they are a different story . Many farmers use mechanically skillful methods … . the same rule apply … permit me arrive up and glance over them when they are young . you may use a 4 - pes disgraceful charge card mulch bed that can also lay drip mag tape underneath at the same time . Plant in wrangle about 10 feet asunder … plant spacing every 2 foundation . This keeps the vernal plants gage - free . Just before the vine creep off the dim charge plate you tame ( shallow ) between the rows with a harrow or rototiller . I have a large tractor - mounted rototiller that works well . I put the tractor in third gear and move fast . This clips off the weeds and does n’t perforate the soil too much . By the way , as the vines crawl I side - attire with Urea then till , so I integrate the Urea and clip locoweed at the same time . The one problem with this method is the credit card is a pain to remove . I have a mulch pull machine that works great onsandy soil . On heavy dirt it is tough release and mechanical or chemical weeding is best . Chemical wedding …… I have a license for the restricted habit of chemical . What I am about to say should not be followed byhome gardeners … . only right educate and licensed applicators . There are two type of weeds … broadleaf and grasses some chemicals control one and not the other . Prefer is cross-file for autumn pumpkin in my land to control grasses … . agriculturalist claim mixed issue . Command verify broadleaf weeds but WARNING ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! overspray on a windy day may turn the neighbor ’s tree white . Not a good melodic theme . Command on wet Spring soil can also damage the pumpkin seedlings . Premerger was a respectable one but it was taken off the market . If you do n’t have a good feeling about these chemicals … you are right ! There are not many or any good choices out there . The stale seedbed method acting may be the proficient . plough , harrow and prepare yourseed bed and apply prefar for gage . Do n’t raise up the soil and have the sess come up . When the sess are about 2 inches tall burn them off with Paraquat or round up . Remember ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Check with your State . What is allowed in my State may not be in yours ? I wish we had good mourning band control for autumn pumpkin but it is n’t out there now . pumkinguy@aol.com
The last clock time I checked , the only herbicides earn for pumpkins in Illinois were Command ( which is excellent for grass ascendence but miss pigweeds ) and Ambien ( difficult to find , but does get the pigweeds ) . The command must be used carefully because it turns many plant white — including lawns and bush . I suppose there is a young product coming out , but not yet available . I find hand weed 3 estate is too much — so I agree that on 10 you need assistance ! Check with the local Cooperative Extension Service situation for recommendations in your area . Many herbicides expect a pesticide applicators license to apply . Harold Reetz
I presently have twopumpkin plant life uprise . One has a green prow the other one has a chickenhearted fore . Both have light-green leaves . Which is well & what can I do about it ?
Yellow Stem is a trait that often show up in Atlantic Giant Pumpkin plants . To my knowledge , it is neither good or bad . There is also a trait that Yellow Spots show up on the leaves off an on . Pumpkinguy may have some more information on this . George Brooks
GBpumkin is right on the money . I have seen large pumpkin on both chicken and green vines . It is a genetic trait like blue eyes or brown eyes . Some vine are half yellow and half unripened . Some mean solar day you may see a fully grown flat vine about a foot wide … .. they are bad … …… we can verbalize more about them later . Squash vine are usually greenish but pumpkins could go either way .
I am think using heating cables because of the relatively depressed temperature we are seeing this spring in Wisconsin . I would like to know what type of heater others have used in the past tense . I am assuming that pipework heating system tape measure or toilet / roof heating overseas telegram are used . The trouble I see is thermal restraint . pipage and gutter heaters do n’t seem to govern in the right temperature part . Has anyone issue forth up with a sound thermostat root ? Does bypassing the thermostat and permit them break away wide open make mother wit ? Help !
I use a ( 7 watt ? ) filth heating plant cable with a construct - in thermoregulator . Never get around the Thermostat , they work very well as manufactured . I ’ve been using them for 10 + year , your seeds will leap mighty out of the earth in 4 -6 days . They can be bought at most Garden or Farm Stores . If you take more information let me bed and I will see if I can find the package . George Brooks
Out of peculiarity , do those of you who use heating cable to warm the grease around your pumpkin vine lead them all summer ? Here in Central PA , the ground is still too blotto to till . Without some really good shelter , it will be too cold to set out outdoors until around June 1 . Most of us will start our plants inside around May 15 and put them out around June 1 .
I HERE A LOT ABOUT MOUNDING FROM EVERYONE . BUT HAVE NOT HEARD WHY YOU DO IT ? AND HOW BIG OF A MOUND DO YOU MAKE ? ( HEIGHT – CIRCUMFERENCE ) CAN TWO VINES farm A whale FROM THE SAME MOUND OR IS THIS NOT A GOOD IDEA ?
Not certain what this mounding is that you speak of . Some peoplegrow pumpkinson raised beds . A raised bed would tend to warm up a lilliputian quicker in the Spring . If you tend to have wet spring grunge , a lift bed would serve to keep your pumpkins animal foot from go too crocked . My guesswork would be that a tumid mound or raised bed would be a waste of sentence . When I say large I think of 10 by 10 foot or orotund . By the time the roots get out that far it is June and thing are warm up up anyway . One knockout of this sportsman is that no two agriculturist do thing the same elbow room . Everyone has their own growing techniques and many works quite well . One thing that all top growers divvy up is that they all follow secure horticulture techniques . Another type of mounding or soil covering that many multitude do is to entomb their vine or taproot . order soil on the vines helps hold the vine down and encourages more tap rooting . If you put soil on the vine where the leaf fore connects , you will develop a second tap root out of the top of the vine . You now have double - tap solution … …… . how about that ! ! ! ! ! twice the tap source … .. that ca n’t wound . Some mass plant pumpkins in hills … this does n’t necessarily intend that youplant the seedson a hill . The term hill also can mean a group . Some farmers still embed Cucurbita pepo in hills ( groups ) in a square design . The benefit of this is that they can cultivate in both directions . I plant about 13 acres of Cucurbita pepo in rows so I only cultivate in one direction . Lgourd hills his young plant life for sens control and it sound like it works quite well . One of
my James Leonard Farmer crony does a standardized thing with his grower . When the youngplants are tall enough to take it , he civilize shallow and close to the plants and it is set up just right to sound off dirt on the plant life without coveringit . By the path … . onAtlantic Giantsit does n’t hurt to mound up some soil around the al-Qaida of your plant . Just before the industrial plant flops over and turns into a vine , it is very vulnerable to sudden wind . It can snap theplant right off , so hill some soil around the base of operations of the plant for extra funding and do n’t draw a blank hint protection . GBpumpkin would be a honorable one to talk to . He has a modified raise layer and compost approach that seems to work well . There are some top grower who mound or utilize raised layer but it is by no means a universal or required growing technique … . to each his own or to each her own . Top 3 growers in the world last year were cleaning woman ! ! ! ! Come on guys get on the spliff . pumkinguy@aol.com
The main understanding I have heard for mounding is improved drainage and increased soil temperature . Pumpkins are tangible heat lovers . The mound method increases the daytime grease temp in , say , the top 6 - 12 inches of soil in comparison to outer areas . Also , theterm “ hill ” refers to the proficiency of plantingmore than one seedling or seminal fluid in a small clump . The term applies to the planting proficiency even if no mounding of the grime in the heart is execute . My 2 cent , Dan Gardner ( dang@athenet.net )
There have been some question about mounds so I thought a photo might assist . Attached you will find a Photo of my Pumpkin Mounds . It is in a .jpg format that can be viewed by all Photo Reader programs or imported in most Word Processors with a JPEG Filter . If someone would care it in a unlike format , let me know . George Brooks
EARLYPUMPKIN GROWINGTIPS
When turn under a cover , peculiarly deoxyephedrine , watch out the wet level . They can dry out out tight even in wet weather . Never fertilize with granular plant food , they give off a gas pedal that can glow the flora in an envelopment . Use a liquid fertilizer , preferably a soft one made from Fish or Seaweed . Pumpkin leaves will often be clear in color during coolheaded weather giving the appearing of lack of nutrients . forefend fertilise in muddy conditions , it will encourage maturation that may not be conform to sun and may burn when the sun comes out again . In area affected by this pest , it is very alive in early Spring . Corn Seed Maggot , eat up the seeds before they can germinate , making it look like the seed was sterile . Treatseed trap with an insecticide that is listedfor maggots of any sort . Beware of Ant activity around your untested plants . This could mean they are farm Strawberry Root Aphids on your young plants . When you slim your Pumpkin plant life reckon for dark-green - blue aphid . Treat with the same insecticide you would apply on emmet . honest Luck George Brooks
I am not an advocate of other come set out … … . best toplant when growingconditions are right . However , at this point in time , you are race out of grow day . If your conditions is that bad , thatlate in the seasonyou should build a minor nursery out of 2 by 4s and plastic and provide ventilation …… . temporary over 90 to 95 are N. G. IT is not a good idea to have big rootbound seedlings to transplant . I would set about some right away and build some auspices for them and put them out next week . Plants that have just come up , transplant much better than big I . The greenhouse does n’t demand to be grownup . 4 - foot square toes and 3 foot high is in force enough . seek to get the plants in the ground by mid May . The 2 extra week may help if you have a big one that is still growing in mid - Sept. good luck pumkinguy@aol.com
Zach , Tough to say what is wrong with the plants without see them . You should use sterilized seed get mix … that will do away with any soil job . In a glasshouse , you’re able to brook ethene injury to plant if you apply a space warmer that is not vented to the outside . Another problem with wilted or weird 3rd leaves can come from over - fertilization in pots . really , if you’re able to get aplant up quick and transplanted within a hebdomad or 10 mean solar day you should not put any fertilizeron them at all until you transplant and then use a gamy phosphoric starter fertiliser like a 15 - 30 - 15 . The problem most hoi polloi run into with plant food burn is that the normal fertilizer forcefulness that you apply in the field is way , way to solid . One or two tablespoons per gal will zap them every prison term . As the kitty start to dry out , the fertilizer is still there but the water has minify so soluble salt levels increase . In a normal root hair , the degree of Strategic Arms Limitation Talks inside the beginning is high than the grade in the soil . This enables the water in the soil to pass through the mobile phone of the root tomentum and into the plant . Where the problem arises is when soluble salt levels are greater in the soil than inside the ancestor . The root shuts down and ca n’t take up water . The plant ( third leafage ) wilts , turns benighted green and may have a crinkled look . Up quick and out within 10 day , no fertilizer until transplant , and you will have courteous seedlings every clock time . If the flora are really messed up , start some new ones mighty forth . As far as the proper temperature in the Spring … .. most areas do n’t get ardent until mid - May so if you want to be an early shuttlecock you must create a greenhouse surround to bring temporary worker up to an acceptable level . A distinctive Spring Clarence Day in New England may only be 50 degrees . For all pragmatic purposes , photosynthesis does not take spot at 50 degree and below so the plant ca n’t make nutrient for itself . As the temperature increases to 60 or 65 affair start slowly . At 70 to 80 , thing are going along at a good clip . temperature of 90 and above are not proficient and are something that hurts me where I grow . As the plants begin to wilt from the heating plant , photosynthesis begin to shut down again . The metabolism of the pumpkin flora is similar to our own body . Photorespiration and respiration burn up some of the food in the plant . For every 10 degrees snow addition in the temperature , the rate of internal respiration DOUBLES ! Very blistering days and hot nights are not the Friend of thepumpkin plant . Too much photosynthate is burned back up by the high rates of respiration . You will notice on a map that virtually all of the giant pumpkins have descend from 42 degrees N parallel . daylight distance is slightly longer at 43 or 44 degree but just a matter of 5 or 10 min in July or August . Temperature is the chief problem down South . This is a issue of some disputation but I would take a temporary worker of 80 arcdegree in the day and 55 or 60 at dark . Unfortunately , I descend outside these temporary quite often . Howard Dill does n’t wish to plant self-aggrandizing , old seedlings so he plants a few , system of weights a few days , plants a few more , etc . When conditions get bearable , he puts out the decent young seedling . He also uses a little greenhouse for Nova Scotia weather condition can be rough in the Spring . I hope some of this helps you . pumpkinguy@aol.com
I REMEMBERED I HAD AN older WATERBED smoke position AROUND ! ! SO I MADE A BOX ON TOP OF AN OLD TABLE IN THE BASEMENT . PUT THE HEATER IN THE BOX . COVERED THE hummer WITH PLASTIC . ADDED A 1 INCH LAYER OF SAND . MOISTENED THE SAND WELL . THEN PLACED MY POTS IN THE SAND AND comprehend THEM WITH CLEAR PLASTIC . PUT AGROW LIGHTOVER THE PLASTIC . WITHIN 16 HOURS I NOW HAVE 5 flora THAT ALL ARE 2 + INCHES TALL . I ’m SO HAPPY ! ! !
In analyzing the ungerminated seeds , I mark a milk - like inwardness from the seed . I wonder what cause this and how I can increase my germination charge per unit ? I do know it could have been a variety of thing such a heat , excessive tearing , etc . I feel my failure was due to watering andpotting soil . Thepotting soilhad an wrong ratio of peat moss , perlite , and vermiculite , and I watered too often . I assume the pot mix should be almost teetotal before I irrigate again . I have planted unexampled seeds . COMMENTS PLEASE
Duncan – You are not the only one with the trouble of expired seeds appearing milky inside , and my germination charge per unit is less than yours if its any solace . Rather than write to you in person , I ’ll apportion my thoughts with the mathematical group , as I ’d like the same answers . I just happen to see Pumkinguy ’s helpful response after I typecast this , but will send it anyway . As you know , Duncan , we have a glassed - in porch in which there is a portable heater and a bench covered with George Sand . Under the sand is a heating cable , and 12 inches above that a grow lightness . I have surrounded the lighting and peat pots beneath it with a pliant camping blanket with a pondering flatware coating on the inside and covered in at both ending to reduce draft and warmth loss . In this compact chamber , I can maintain an atmosphere temperature of between 70 and 85 degrees . I found that the pot dry out awfully chop-chop inside , so I decided to lay some thin true cedar planks between the stack and the moxie and saturate the planks with water system . This seemed to raise the humidness , and reduce the need for excessive watering . I planted more come yesterday and trust this helps . What phosphorus … .s me off , after all this technology , is that when I turn my compost pile over the other day , there , at the bottom , were dozens of squash racquets seed germinating like crazy ! By the mode , I ’m using Sunshine Mix # 1 , made by Sun Gro Horticulture of Bellview , WA , which is supposed to be pretty good stuff . To be certain of sterilization , I nuke the mix in the microwave before planting . I only have way for one autumn pumpkin , and my only successful seedling sits , in near quiescence , in a gal bucketful outdoors in the cold frame – evident healthy , but no doubt cursing me for being found too soon .
The whitish stuff was a fungus . You probably did n’t put an antifungal powder on your source . Then you irrigate too much and at the same time did n’t have a high enough temperature to develop your cum . They sat there in a temporary not high enough to sprout and molder . I ’m certain you ’ll get a peck of advice on this one because I think it happens a passel .
Regarding your enquiry about germination , I and many of my friends have had the same problem . I have speak with Howard Dill lately about this and he said he has invite many phone margin call from all over and everyone seems to be induce the same job with last year ’s seed stock , it only seems to be from the seeds dried out of the 1995 pumpkin stock . If you have older stemma prove germinating that . He ’s not sure to be Howard thinks it could be from people not direct the seeds out of the pumpkin vine early enough and they are cook inside the pumpkins , and not being dried out properly . The other drive could have been from last year ’s weather there was so much heat and so little body of water , the seeds could have cooked inwardly thepumpkins last growingseason . In any event , they seem to be already deadened and we are planting them which is stimulate them to waste and crumble in the soil and that is the bloodless film you are see .
Did you use a fungicide on the seed ? I have had lower sprouting telephone number when I die to use it . Daniel J. Gardner ( dang@athenet.net ) Internet Pumpkin Enthusiast Giant pumpkin webmaster : http://www.athenet.net/~dang/garden-forum-education/pumpkins/world-class-giant-pumpkin-home-page-2/ |
There are a few thing you may do to meliorate sprouting percentages . The seed itself could be a component . Some seeded player are well than others . Assuming that there is not a problem with the seeds , next look at temps … .. . The Atlantic Giant is temperature sensitive and should never be started at temps of 70 or lower … . you will get slight or no sprouting . Soil temp should be a minimum of 80 level and is even better @ 85 . 90 to 95 degrees will make them come up quick but I hesitate to recommend a temporary that high unless you have accurate temperature control . If your temperature runs by and get up into the 100s you may falsify the seed so 85 is a good dependable temp . The white exudate that you see is just the mush ( extremely technical term ) from the busted down ejaculate . Bottom warmth is good for seed starting and propagation mats are available from glasshouse supply places . Sterilized lightweight seed begin commixture are the best . My favourite is Peters seed starting mixes … .. they are gentle to wet too . Some people file the boundary of the seed to help it crack open … do n’t file too mysterious and damage the ejaculate . Some seeds just are n’t practicable or are hollow indoors . Al Berard likes to take his seed and drop them on the kitchen table from a summit of about 6 or 8 inch . The empty seeds do n’t have the same tintinnabulation to them . That is about it . Oh , also you may try a little Captan on the seeds @ planting . pumkinguy@aol.com
I have one dubiousness I need respond . I have four plants started in one of the greenhouses at a farm I shape at . The plants look weak . One has a droopy third leaf while the others look like they have deformed leave of absence with little yellowed spots on them . Should I be worried ? If so , what should I do to even out the trouble ? I plan on putting the pumpkin vine in the flat coat within the workweek . I was also wondering what temperature it should be outside to plant the pumpkins . Is it too early ? Last yr I started recently and had some bother . This year I go for to start on clock time . Am I on time . Thanks , Zach
Zach , I ’d startle some back - up seeds on a even schedule , just to be sure . If you are n’t felicitous with the looking at of the seedlings you may go for the next group . Too much wet / heat may be your problem in the direct sun glasshouse . attempt to put a Dominicus blocking agent above the seedling to barricade some of the direct light and estrus . You ’re not too late ! I ’ve not planted a seed yet . Ray Waterman / WPC
Is it potential to get two dissimilar seed colour from the same pumpkin ?
I have seen slight difference in seed pelage when looking at source from the same autumn pumpkin . It seems to me that it was the Holland 792 that had some still seed and some that had tiny pockmarks the size of a pinprick …… . I may be improper on this one but I am pretty certain it was the 792 . Weir ’s 914 had seeds that were shaped the same but some were a piddling darker … . kind of off - ashen and light brown . Since 1983 I have carved probably 4 or 5 hundredAtlantic Giantsfor my Halloween solemnisation and virtually all were either brown or all white . In a brown seeded pumpkin , you will see some blanched ones but they are commonly skinny and not executable . I have never seen embonpoint dark brown semen and plunk white seminal fluid in the same one . I have seen brown seed with lily-white tips on some . By the way , in typesetter’s case some of you had n’t get word , some of thelargest pumpkinshave come from whitened seeds , so they are not inevitably inferior . Lgourd may have some input on this … . he has trend open a few . I am quite confident that if you use different type of male pollen on one distaff flower that the genetically unlike pollen grains will germinate , mature pollen tubes , and send different genetic material into each ovule that will terminate up being a fledged seed . I had someseeds in 1986 that if you imbed 10 seeds … .8 would be beautiful orange tree and 2 were pure greensquash . It is quite vulgar to see many trait from seeds out of the same Cucurbita pepo . The 792 will give you prissy large orangish ones or small-scale white pumpkin that are form like cartwheel . To straighten one out genetically would take 5 or 6 geezerhood of inbreeding and type selecting to produce consistent specimens . When piss a true hybrid ( which the Atlantic Giant is n’t ) you must inbreed two lines until you get consistency … . usually 5 or 6 inbreeding then you cross - pollinate the two unlike type . The resulting seed from that cross will be hybrids and may show heterosis or intercrossed vigor . Many ( most ) hoi polloi fussy - pollinate different males and females , hoping to get some hybrid vigor but the seeds are such an open - pollinate jumble ( genetically ) that there is no predictability . Seeds are a big gamble , even when you are using good I .
P.S. My speculation would be that the coloring material of the seed pelage comes from a gene from the female person … … If the seed coat gloss cistron came from the virile flower , you could pollenate with white seeded pollen and some brown seed pollen and get one-half of each color in the next slew of seed . I have not seen this chance so I must strike seed coat color is a distaff trait .
Not usually but it can happen , it may also intend one of the colors is infertile . George
Is there any correlation to tremendous seed farewell and a very thick stalk at an former age to the development of a enceinte than average fruit . The seed leaves of this plant grew to well over 5″ before the increase of true leave of absence even began . Also , the stalk of the works at 21 day is well over 2″
I have not always had the bestplant produce the large Pumpkin .
Large semen leafage and a 2 - in stalk @ 21 days does not insure a larger specimen , but I ’ll narrate you what … …… .. give a choice , I ’ll take a nice vigorous plant like that any mean solar day . Large source do n’t seem to have any bearing on ultimate pumpkin size . You have to wish the stead you are in right now . thing are getting serious in my part of New England now . We need a drastic weather alteration very before long . Waterlogged soil and air temporary worker of 50 if we are favorable . I ordinarily prepare my patch with tractors , etc . I actually got stay put with a 4 bike cause tractor today … … that ’s bad . 55 - degree grime temporary worker today …… transplant are still in the greenhouse and must be transplant in the next 3 days so they do n’t get too big . pumkinguy@aol.com
Where can I buy good source ?
you may purchase Atlantic Giant Pumpkins seminal fluid at any commissioned retailer or seed distributor . Check your local major baby’s room computer storage . you may buy the seeds via chain mail order by take the Secrets page .
How do I enter a contest ?
connect a local Society that is limit on the Unofficial Giant Pumpkin Sir Frederick Handley Page
Are there any good books or other source of entropy ?
How - to - Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins – by Don Langevin
The Pumpkin King – by Al Kingsbury
Pumpkin Growing creature
Who hold the world record book ?
Please see this varlet for thecurrent criminal record
TWO OF MYPLANTS HAVE BROWN SPOTS ON THE SEED LEAVES variety OF A RUST COLOR ? WHAT IS IT ? HOW TO do by IT ? IT SEEMS TO BE ONLY ON THE OUTER EDGES OF THE LEAVES .
With new seedling planted , 1 ) What is the right fertilizing platform prior to pollination ? Daily or weekly lotion ? 2 ) What is the plant food ratio ? When the pumpkin vine is pollinated , 1 ) What is the right fertilizing program after pollenation ? everyday or weekly applications ? 2 ) What is the fertilizer ratio ?
If you ask 20 top cultivator , you might get 10 unlike answers on this one . Before any fertilizer is put on a soil test should be done to detect deficiencies or more probable fertiliser level that are too high . Manygiant pumpkin growersget carry aside with fertiliser sum of money . Every fertilizer has a salt index … .. the higher the number , the more likely it will burn the plant . If your potash levels are very in high spirits it would not be a good approximation to utilize a high caustic potash ( K ) blend . I survey 20 growers a few years back and the general drift was to use a high phosphorous fertilizer like 15 - 30 - 15 in the beginning . In cool natural spring filth , the blend should have some of the nitrate build of atomic number 7 in it . nitrate are available to the industrial plant when thing are nerveless . After pollenation , many apply a higher nitrogen and potash formula 20 - 20 - 20 or even higher on the first and third number . A point of selective information … . The first number on the bag is the Nitrogen , second Phosphorous , third Potash . pumkinguy@aol.com
Foliar eating has become very pop lately and I do it myself . Foliar alimentation , however , does not work very well and I ’ll tell you why . Two years ago I had a long talk with one of the technical experts at Peters plant food . A VERY small percentage of the foliar plant food actually enters the plant through the leaf cuticle . Peters did studies where they compensate the corporation that theplants were growingin and they chance small plant response to foliar applications . Otherplants that did n’t have their potscovered showed a salutary response . What was take place was that most of the foliar - applied fertilizer was really being washed off and insert the flora through the roots . If you look at an Atlantic Giant leaf , you will notice that if you practice urine to the leaf it will lead down the folio , down the stem , and justly into the taproot at the fundament of the stem . So foliar eating does knead but it does n’t enter the plant ( at least most of it does n’t ) enter through the leaf but through the roots when it is wash off with watering . A modest pct does enter through the leaves and the secure flesh of foliar nitrogen is urea….stay away from high ammoniac formulations . As far as doubling or tripling dose … . some do it but it is a risky business . Remember this is plant food and it can combust . I would personally go with rec . dosages . pumkinguy@aol.com
Plant strain
I have a works that is 28 daylight old on Sunday it ’s about 4 foot long . The question I have is it has a lot of manlike blossom and a pumpkin out on the principal vine . What would do the flora to do that a such a young age ?
Stress can cause a pumpkinplant to flowerand show fruit prematurely . Too much fertilizer , water stress , etc . I have seen Atlantic Giants in pocket-sized sight that had dry out out and had flowers and small pumpkins on a one - foot vine . If the field you have planted in is right smart too hot ( fertilizer wise to ) it is not too later to start another flora but time is of the essence . Study what you are doing otherwise this class and you may have the hint . Megadoses of foliar feed might do it . There is something decidedly wrong for a healthy industrial plant that does n’t reach your stage for 50 or 60 days depending on climate .
I consider of another affair that could cause a small vine to have prime and fruit . Too much piddle in the root zona ( deluge soil with no air ) . Iplanted some field pumpkins on the edgeof a field where the drain was miserable . We had a fuddled spring and with all the water in the root zone , there was no oxygen and the roots were damaged and stunted . The result was that I had very modest works with early fruit and blossom in that field . The eternal rest of the field of study was OK . With the unusually cold and WET bounce that we have had in New England , that is another hypothesis . pumkinguy@aol.com
Would someone advise me on how to deal with cucumber beetles ? In old years I ’ve been using Thiodan to ensure vine woodborer , squeeze bugs , and cucumber beetles . This class Thiodan does n’t seem to be working . I never have view so many cuke beetles . They just destroyed three of my plants in one night . Also , would someone secernate me how many chief runners I should allow to set on ? Last year Ilet my plantsgo wild . I ’m told I should snip . Any help you could give me would be greatly revalue .
Seven is the most effective weapon again cuke Beetles . George Brooks
leafage wilt
My plants are 4 wks . sometime and have been outside in a greenhouse . I removed the greenhouse when it finally get sunny and fond . Myplants seem to be growingwell and have good color . This is the first fourth dimension since they have been growing we got good sun , as soon as the sun hits the plant they take up to wilt and search bad if the sun goes away or I fill in them they perk back up and look fine . They have plenty of water may be too much . I ’ve been using Maricle originate 15 - 30 - 15 once a calendar week on them . I do n’t interpret what is causing them to droop when the sun rack up them . I hope someone can serve me with this .
What you are seeing is temperature stress . As you have pronounce , there is plenty of water in the ground but they wilt . On the underside of your leaves , you have stomata ( pores ) , When the temperature gets hot with full sunlight , the foliage temperature soar … .. 10 to 15 level high than the air temperature , the stomata nigh to conservewater and the plantwilts . I have been battle this for years in Connecticut . On a day where it is 90 , you may have line of business temperature of 110 to120 degrees … .. put a thermometer out there in the patch….you will be amazed . I have used intermittent water sprays for the last ten twelvemonth during the heat of the day . Do n’t believe the news report you hear about water droplets act like magnifying meth and burn the leave of absence … .. old wives tale . You will not have any extra disease insistency as long as you do n’t keep them wet too long . Use a low bulk sprinkler like a Naan Turbohammer … . about 7 dollars each . They will spray a 30 - foot circle with only .33 gallons per minute . Leave the spray on for 5 or 10 minute of arc with the relaxation of the hour off so the leafage dry out . That is the trick to keep the disease under control … the leaves must dry out in between watering cycles . The tiny sprinklers will not make a marshy mess because there is small coming out of them . The evaporative temperature reduction will make the leaf come properly up . To try out this just take your hosepipe and spray the leave-taking for 5 minutes on one plant life , wait another 5 minutes and your works will be standing at aid . blending will accomplish the same thing but too much shade will cut down on photosynthesis . pumkinguy@aol.com
Weighing Process
Some fourth dimension ago I register how one could judge the exercising weight of a pumpkin by the circumference of it . Does someone have data about that ? Any mentation for judge the weights as they raise would be helpful .
value your pumpkins at least each week . Gains in perimeter can average four to six inches in a 24 time of day period . quantify the circumference of your pumpkins first parallel to the ground around the intact pumpkin , from bloom end to stem . Next , measure over the top in both directions : from the terra firma to drudge along the axis from stem to bloom end , then perpendicular to the stem - bloom - end axis vertebra . Add these three measurements together ( inches ) , then manifold by 1.9 to give an estimation of the autumn pumpkin ’s weighting .
Which vine to choose
Well , it ’s done or die time . Should I root for up my largest pumpkin vine or will it finally issue forth around ? My largest of three vines deny to bloom while my other vines already have several promising nominee on each . Is there some type of “ extract ” I should essay before jerk the large one . The reason I hesitate to pull out it is this plant should produce the practiced because of its blood . Any ideas ?
How long is the vine ? If it doesn¹t produce by 15′ I would take it out but that is a very personal decision for you to make . George Brooks
I agree with GBpumpkin . If you are out over 15 feet with no blossoms , something may be up . It seems to me that one of the lady grower had an 800 or 900 pounder out about 20 foundation last year . Ca n’t remember who it was . You must have started very early to have vine that long already . Most growers do n’t lay out fruit until tardy June or early July . It seems to me that the peeress that position fruit @20 feet , pose fruit around the third week of July . If the plant is not crowd the others out , I would go out it . If you are in a quick grow area , 70 days after fruit set is enough time for yield development , meaning if you set up fruit now you will be cheeseparing to done by the end of August . That ’s a recollective fourth dimension for a advanced pumpkin to be sitting around hold off for the October fair . Growers up North or in the Pacific Northwest have cooler atmospheric condition and long slow growth . They need more time . Pumpkin has a biological meter clock so if you commence early they stop early . An extreme example of this would be a raiser in Florida . He could start aplant in Feb but it will not remain to growuntil Oct. ( 240 days ) . Environmental factors will speed up or slow down down the biologic time clock ( numeral of degree days ) . Where it is hot ( where I am ) we might be sound for 140 day . Joel Holland might go 160 mean solar day in the cool Northwest . I say do n’t jerk it unless it is crowd the others if so get out the knife . pumpkinguy@aol.com
My pollination questions are 1 . Will a exclusive jumbo pumpkin pollinate itself satisfactorily , or would it be better to let allplants grow to the floweringstage so they could cut across - pollinate each other ? 2 . On the other side of my yard there are some othervarieties of pumpkinsgrowing , – small shit - o - lanterns and lumen – should I be interested about these hybridizing with the monster ?
1 . In rarified casing , Atlantic Giants have produced only distaff prime . You may want to line up another grower to supply manlike flowers in an emergency . 2 . I ’ve never had a problem with hybridizing - pollenation with Butternut , Frosty Bush Pumpkin or Baby Bear Pumpkin . George Brooks
A normalAtlantic Giantplant will have male and female blossom aplenty . I have seen occasionally where a plant would have all males or all female until quite recently in the season which would not be ripe if you only have one plant . Usually , you should have a few male person to do the job . If you are not hear to do specific reproduction , you’re able to hand cross-pollinate some of the manlike pollen on to the female person gently with a lenient - barbellate brush . Also , you could permit the bees do their thing for additional pollinating . You may have bother pollinating on days of 90 degree and up . Just keep trying and you will succeed . Atlantic Giants are in the Cucurbita Maxima family and will not cover - pollinate with a regular flying field pumpkin which is a Cucurbita Pepo . AtlanticGiants will cross with many member of the winter squashfamily . I ca n’t help you with the Lumina … . I take on it is either a Pepo or a Maxima , but I am not sure . GBPumpkin or gourd may recognize … . if not , ask the cum supplier what the mob is . Leaving the other plants(Atlantic Giant ) plants in as pollinators is O.K. as long as you have elbow room . The radical of the Lumina may give you a clue as to what home it is in . Maxima have large delicate stem broadly like winter squash . Pepo has a difficult gourdlike stem . I have seen Luminas but ca n’t remember what the stem looks like . pumkinguy@aol.com
I get just infested with vine borers … I spray roentgen(sp ) and still I terminate up cutting them out by the 12 in the vine … it basically stops all ontogenesis of the pumpkin … even when covering the vines with dirt . Is there a better way ?
try out Methoxychlor each workweek in June and July . During times of heavy plague , spray every 5 day and after heavy rainfall or watering . Rotenone is not as potent a killer as Methoxychlor . pumkinguy@aol , com
PH level
Hello Again . Does anyone eff how big my plants should be at this stage in the year ? Also , I checked the pH of my soil . It ’s about 7.2 . Should I put some stuff in the solid ground to bring down the pH scale ? What should I use ? Is it too late ? Any water - soluble stuff that I could use ?
Although 7.2 pH is slightly high , I would get out it as is . There have been some massive pumpkins grow at that pH and gamy . Len Stellpflug come to judgement … .. he has mature some 600 , 700 - Sudanese pound squash in that pH range . sulphur or Aluminum sulphate will lower your pH but let female parent nature do it . Also , most fertilizers have a slight acidifying effect . pumkinguy@aol.com
HELP ! Despite all that I have learn about starting seeds indoors , I still must STILL be doing some things wrong .
Early this season a construct a light table using eight ( 8) fluorescent workshop lights ( 2 bulbs 4″ cool white type ) . This equals 16 each of the 40 - watt tubes . I prepared mysoil mixwith reinvigorated supply of 1/3 perlite , 1/3 coarse vermiculite , and 1/3 shredded peat moss . I pre - moistened themix slightly at the pottingtime to bear moisture . I care for a medium - sized pailful of the moisten mix with about 2 teaspoons of Captan pulverization and meld it around . I am using 4 - inch peat lot with holes poke in the bottom and around the margin of the fundament . I wet the seeds I received from GBPUMPKIN for a twosome of mo and dust munificently with Captan gunpowder . I coif the seeds in the mix with the points down and covered very loosely with about 1/2 inch of the mix . The surface temp of the peat pot under the lighting was mensurate with an outdoor thermometer at 85 degrees . To reach this temp I supplement the oestrus of the shop light up with a 500 - watt halogen work light placed about 18 inch under the 1/2 plywood table . The lights are left burn 24 hours a day . The temporary worker in the bottom of the passel holding trays did not outdo 90F. I scat a dehumidifier at a intermediate context in the basement . The light are about 2 - 3 inches above the peat pot . The lights are direct very close together in the interest of raise the local temperature . I placed several white corrugated cardboard piece around the perimeter of the light assembly to hold the heat in and to centralise ( by a little reflection ) some of the light into the main area . My initial watering was thorough . I have used no fertilizers . I essentially added water to the moistened mix , with the cum installed , until water flowed somewhat from the bottom yap . Although I suspect I have overwatered slightly , from here things were looking ok . I got full sprouting percentages with the seeds up in about 4 - 5 day . Once the seed ejected from the soil , I cautiously removed the seed jackets to exhibit the first two leaves . No damage was impose during jacket remotion . Soon after , the seedling just did n’t seem to go on . In fact , the 5/14/96 starts seem to have stall . The seed jacket crown leaves expanded slightly , but not with the energy I saw last class with Ray Waterman ’s seeds . In fact , they began to coil under slightly rather than grow vigorously . One is showing sign of yellowing , but I have ensure this before and not dumbfound too interested about it . Yesterday I noticed that the first true leaf trying to egress on some of them . On over 75 % of them the first true leafage has become brown and shriveled on the ends , looking like it will not emerge properly . This has occurred before the first folio is even 1/8 to 1/2 inch in size ! I have notice a ecumenical deterioration of the plants in the last 48 hours . I have backed off on heat and water a mo , think that I am cooking the plants and/or drowning them . I am stumped and GETTING RATHER NERVOUS HERE ! I can not carry the have the same failures I had last year . I am specially upset because I just invest the residual of my GBPUMPKIN seed line ( 8 seed ) to the same method with a 5/25/96 starting line . If I suffer those to this problem , I am hurting BIG TIME . I need a peppiness talking here and some strong advice on how to go back . My 50×50 is tilled . I have construct a wonderful cold flesh . I just completed it tonight . It is 6x6x4 in size of it ( Howard Dill style design ) . The mound was formed by excavating a 5′ diameter rope to a profoundness of 34 inches . A intermixture of 75 % compost and 25 % topsoil filled the hole and formed a nice pitcher . Outdoors , I am ready . But , indoors are looking shaky and I am OUT OF SEEDS !
I HAVE OVER THE LAST 5 days EXPERIENCED CLOSE TO 100 % GERMINATION rate USING MY OWN SEEDS , P&P SEEDS , AND HOWARDS SEEDS . WHAT I DO IS BUY STERILISED SEED STARTINGSOIL concoction FROM A GARDENCENTER AND FILL 4 column inch PEAT POTS WITH IT . THEN PLACE THEM IN A WINDOW WITH SOUTHERN EXPOSURE . I station THE SEEDS IN THE SOIL SO THE TOP OF THE SEEDS CAN JUST BE see ( POINTED END DOWN ) . THEN I WILL TOTALLY SOAK THE SOIL TILL WATER POURS OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE PEAT POT AND THE MOISTURE souse THROUGH THE SIDES OF THE POT . I irrigate ONCE A DAY BEFORE I GO TO BED WITH LUKEWARM WATER UNTIL THE THIRD LEAF come forth THEN I WATER EVERY 2 OR 3 day . THE TEMP IN MY HOUSE IS APROX 21 DEG CELCIUS ( CONSTANTLY ) . THESEEDS EMERGE WITHIN A WEEK AND ALL OF MY PLANTSTHIS YEAR HAD STARTER LEAVES OVER 7 in ACROSS THE LARGEST WAS 9 INCHES.(EACH LEAF WAS 3.5 TO 4.5 INCHES ) I BELIEVE YOUR PROBLEM COULD BE CAUSED FROM THE FLOURESENT LIGHTS … IF THE LIGHTS ARE close THAN 16 TO 18 column inch THE PLANTS WILL HAVE trouble … TO MUCH irradiation . IF YOU DO NOT USE A WIDE SPECTRUM BULB IT MAY make PROBLEMS ALSO YOU MAY TRY come in SOME SORT OF RED TRANSPARENT fictile INFRONT OF THE LIGHTS THIS WILL GIVE THE plant life THE TYPE OF igniter THEY involve ( right gloss WAVELENGTHS ) . … .. I HOPE I HELPED A LITTLE . TROY N.
I was marvel what everyone believe the best clip are to fertilise the pumpkins . 1 , of course of action , is when you first engraft them , but what about the other times when they set out to run ? , when the pumpkin lead off to set ? etc . I hump there will be unlike opinions , but I would wish to see all you want to station me .
My vox populi is that a constant eating schedule is best , so you do n’t get highs and Sir David Low . Every time you irrigate , you hold to thin fertilizer . On a modest graduated table , this might work out to one - half tablespoonful per gallon or else of one or two tablespoon , however , you are applying fertilizer continuously . 15 - 30 - 15 up until fruit exercise set , then 20 - 20 - 20 or even high-pitched on the 2nd and third numbers after fruit set . pumkinguy@aol.com
My opinion is that a constant feeding schedule is best , so you do n’t get high and lows . Every time you irrigate , you apply to dilute fertilizer . On a pocket-sized scale , this might work out to one - half tablespoon per gallon alternatively of one or two tablespoons , however , you are applying fertiliser unceasingly . 15 - 30 - 15 up until yield set , then 20 - 20 - 20 or even in high spirits on the second and third issue after fruit readiness . > > Good advice , during the yield growth microscope stage if you put the plant through highs and low it may have premature matureness , result in a small Pumpkin . George
Well , my pumpkin seedling just got exhaust from a little hail storm . They are hurt and buffet but the inner leaf come along to be intact . My question is how much can the seedlings take before they give up and go ? They have lost some of their “ seedling leaves ” and their second leaves are just do out .
Give them liquid fertilizer right aside to help them through the stress . You may also treat them with a Fungicide to help the healing and forestall disease . George Brooks
Fear not . Hail impairment to leaves is not usually disastrous . Hail damage to a untested pumpkin can be more serious . Although they may look a little torn up now , give them a week and they will rebound back . The seed leaves are of little use now….they usually shrivel anyway . pumkinguy@aol.com
I live it is a piffling former to be ask this , but what do masses advocate for putting under thepumpkin once the yield is growing ? I have heard some say gumption , but in my case ( growing on the lawn of my back yard ) I do n’t mean I can be put gumption all around . I may need something else a niggling easier to clean up . What about a gunny sack , or landscape gardening mesh ?
Clean filth is the best , I would not recommend anything else . George
Each year , when the yield gets to be about the size of a football , I place a opus of 1″ styrofoam under each . I buy 4′ by 8′ sheets and cut these into four opus . I feel the styrofoam helps keep the fruit up off the ground which help to forbid pathogen from infecting the pumpkin . Also , it repels water and keeps the yield bottom comparatively dry . Will Nova Scotia ,
It is significant to attempt to keep the leaves from wilting if you’re able to . The stomata close when the plant wilt so photosynthesis will be severely dilute back . Although a leaf may be full - grown , it is very authoritative to the plant as a photosynthate ( food for thought ) exporter to other part of the plant . A smallgrowing leaf will have more nutrient than it produce so take care of those big leaves….they will be export food to that braggart pumpkinsoon . pumkinguy@aol.com
Please do not slice your vine and endeavor to milk feed your pumpkin vine … .. it is the bighearted wives tale in the pumpkin world . Cutting or splitting your Cucurbita pepo will destroy your vine and nothing will be taken up by a slit vine in the process . Milk has water supply in it ( over 90 % ) … . that ’s good but your hose provide that . Milk has some calcium in it ( that ’s good but limestone and calcium nitrate have that . Milk has some sugar in it ( milk sugar ) … . not the same eccentric of sugars establish in plant life . Finally , milk has fatty tissue in it … that is REALLY BAD . The first thing a good composter will narrate you is do n’t impart meat or fatty flake to your peck . I ca n’t imagine how injecting fat into a industrial plant would help even if it would enter through the slit ( which it wo n’t ) . I know virtually every one of the top growers in the world and to my cognition NOT ONE Milk River feeds . The least damaging practical program would be to apply no fat milk to the soil and let the roots take it up . You will get a much smashing consequence by putting the low - fatty Milk River on your cereal grass in themorning to give you lots of energy to take care of your plantthe right mode . Now go out there and gett’em and keep the knife blades away from your plant ! pumkinguy@aol.com
Hello everyone again . I need to thank everyone for their assist with my recent questions . I appreciate your time and advice . I have one other interrogative though . Can anyone tell me if light dark-green leaves are OK ? The leaves on my two plants seem to miss a dear light-green color . Is this a problem . If so , what can be done ? Also , my plant life are kind of small . Only three modest true leaves per industrial plant . Is this a unsound sign . Thanks again .
Without get a line thing it is knotty to tell but I can secern you this … . we have had some horrendous weather condition in New England … . cold , wet , and little sun . It is potential that the light greenness is not a fertilizer want , but a deficiency of quality sunlight . If you have a workweek of dark nasty weather condition , the foliage will lighten . Chlorophyll ca n’t prepare without right sunlight ( hilling up celery blocks out the sun and blench the Apium graveolens dulce to light viridity ) . If the plants are still inwardly , get them out … . there is not agrow light made that can contend with the real Sunday and that includes 1,000 watt coated Supermetallarc bulbs , which are many times stronger than a unconstipated grow unaccented fix . So if they are out , just hold back for a week that has temps above 70 and full sun … .. we have n’t had it yet . If they are not in the soil , get them outside and irrigate them in with 15 - 30 - 15 @ 1 tablespoon per gallon and trust for good growing weather condition . The extended prognosis for N. E. looks substantially for the weekend . pumkinguy@aol.com
Its getting warm outside and I ’m opening the ends of the basket house to vent the warmth . What is the satisfactory heat chain to consider ? If it is 75F , do I postulate to open up the ends ? The eve temporary worker order from 43 - 53F. When should I remove the hoop house ? Next interrogative : Now that my autumn pumpkin is growing , When do I set off mounding the vine ? What is the distance I stop mounding the vine when I gear up a yield ? Please allow the r from the base of the fruit .
temporary above 90 are not the champion of the pumpkin vine . If you are cover the vine with soil , you have to wait until the vine is out a few foot so the side vines do n’t get buried . If the vine is out 6 feet , you might be capable to bury the first two feet of the vine . pumkinguy@aol.com
Yes….the S curve is near and cut back the taproot at the pumpkin and one on each side of it so the vine can lift . There are more alien ways to leave all tap root on and let the vine invoke but they are a pain with a quite a little of tinkering .
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